Pipe Diagram and Description
SITTER: Many traditional tobacco pipes are not designed to sit. They are personal and not typically shared so they are designed to be held comfortably in the hand or pocket. Because my pipes are designed for a variety of contemporary uses, all of my pipes are designed to be sitters. (or standers depending on the design)
BOWL: If a bowl is too deep the material at the bottom will get dirty as you smoke which negatively effects the taste, too wide and it doesn't burn effectively. My bowls are typically between 3/4" and 7/8" in diameter and depth. The walls of the bowl angle inward and are straight, not rounded, allowing for a more even and complete burn.
CENTER DROUGHT HOLE: A traditional tobacco pipe will typically have the drought hole off to the side. I believe a center drought hole allows for more efficient smoking.
CHAMBER PORT: A small hole on the side that connects with the interior calabash chamber and allows the user to control airflow and clear the calabash chamber of smoke.
BIT: The bit on a traditional pipe will typically have a little lip on the end, this allows the user to clasp the pipe with their teeth so they can smoke hands free. This really isn’t a feature I feel is important for my style of pipes which smoke best when the bit is just touched to the lips.
CALABASH CHAMBER: Many traditional tobacco pipes are made with a calabash chamber. This chamber between the bowl and stem serves to cool the smoke and improve taste. With my designs, the chamber serves an additional purpose of collecting all the resin that is produced while smoking. Easy access to the chamber makes cleaning simple. For these reasons, all of my pipes are designed with a calabash chamber.
I include a small pipe tool and some basic cleaning supplies with each pipe. For routine use just run the cleaning rod from the pipe tool through the drought-hole. (The small hole at the bottom of the bowl) Be sure to pass the cleaning rod over a lighter flame first. If the rod is cold it become stuck. Just a light warming is all that's needed.
One purpose of the calabash chamber is to collect all that gunk that is generated when smoking. When it starts to get full, just scoop all that out using either the wooden craft sticks or the spoon arm on the pipe cleaning tool (depending on the chamber size). The craft sticks can be obtained from any hobby/craft store. I like the ones with blunt ends so they scrape clean on the flat chamber bottom.
Use the pipe cleaners for the air-hole in the stem. If you just want to get it functional, just pass a few pipe cleaners through, if you want to make it brand-new clean, on the last few passes, dip half the pipe cleaner in a little denatured alcohol.
The interior of the bowl will eventually get gunk build-up. If the pipe is already warm from being recently used, then that’s a great time for cleaning, but if it’s cold, just turn the bowl upside down and carefully heat over a lighter. Don’t get too close, no burning, just warm it up. A heat gun works very well or even a hair dryer. Once you have the interior warmed up, just use the spoon arm of the pipe tool to scoop out the bowl. Heating the spoon is also helpful. Be careful not to bear down too hard, you don’t want to scrape off the carbon coating. All my pipes will come pre-seasoned with a carbon bowl coating which facilitates seasoning. If it’s nice and warm, the soft stuff will scoop right out.
The Bowl Rim
The bowl rim will eventually get gunked up with resin. This really won’t mess with the function, but if you want to keep it looking nice, this goop is easily wiped off with a little heat. Again, I like the heat gun or hair dryer on this, but a lighter will also work as long as you don't get to close that it burns the wood. We just want to warm it up and wipe it off.
It should be noted that wood will contract in extreme cold conditions and your stem tenon may become loose. However, once the pipe is brought back to standard room temperature, you should get a snug fit again.
Briar is a root burl from the heath tree that grows in various regions of the Mediterranean. Most traditional pipes are made with briar because of it’s very high heat tolerance, respiration, hardness, and beautiful grain. Almost all of the pipes I make are from briar, although I will occasionally make a pipe from Olive wood.
ACRYLIC and POLY RESIN
Acrylic and Poly Resin are common stem materials and come in a variety of colors and patterns. I typically purchase acrylic in rod or block form but will occasionally pour my own stem material using poly resin.
Ebonite is vulcanized rubber and is probably the most common stem material for traditional wood pipes.
I only use Delrin for tenons. Delrin is a brand name for acetal homopolymer and it’s ideal for pipe tenons because it’s self lubricating and it combines low-friction and high-wear resistance with high strength and stiffness.
Sometimes I will use other high grade woods for accents and bands, such as Spalted Tamarind, Buck-eyed Burl or Boxwood. I haven’t tried the bamboo yet, but it could be awesome so it’s on my to-do list.
PIPE NAMING AND NUMBERING
My pipe design names generally follow traditional tobacco pipe naming. If it’s pretty close to a standard tobacco pipe design, then that’s what I’ll name it, although I may add some clarification such as in my “Rocking Blowfish”. The Blowfish is a classic tobacco pipe design. But as I design all my pipes to sit or stand freely, I altered the design to have a rocking bottom, so I took some liberties with the name for clarification. If it’s a my own unique design, such as the Wizard’s Rook, then I choose the name myself. All of my pipes are stamped with my name and it's unique number. The first two digits of the number represent the year it was made, the second two digits represent the sequential pipe number made that year. For example, pipe #2022 will represent the 22nd pipe of the year 2020, pipe #1935 will be the 35th pipe of 2019.
WOOD PIPES V. GLASS OR METAL PIPES
Glass pipes can be very beautiful and the artisans that make them are undoubtedly very talented. Glass pipes work well because they are hollow - which kind of serves as the calabash chamber in my pipes, collecting the gunk so clogging is minimized. However, a problem with glass pipes is that they are difficult to clean. Glass pipes are also very fragile and can easily break if dropped. With my wood pipes the calabash chamber serves the same purpose as being hollow except it's much easier to clean. Also, wood pipes smoke cooler and taste better because they hold heat more efficiently. In addition, wood pipes are completely natural and don’t pose the risk of toxic gases like their metallic counterparts. As with traditional tobacco pipes, with proper maintenance my pipes will last forever and will smoke and look better with age.
LEFT OR RIGHT SIDE CHAMBER PORT
Most commercial pipes with chamber ports usually have them on the left side. As a lefty myself, this has always been great for me because I can operate the port with a finger instead of my thumb which is the single opposing digit. I have a much better hold because I’m not trying to both hold the pipe and operate the port with my thumb. The same would be true for a right-hander and a right sided chamber port. I typically make the chamber port on the left side, however I will occasionally make it on the right side as well. The side where the chamber port is located is listed in the specs when I post the pipe.